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PostPosted: Sat Dec 27, 2014 9:43 pm 
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For what you are trying to do, wipe it on. The most difficult aspect will be figuring out how to hold the work without getting your hands all over it.

You can find all kinds of articles delineating the padding process on the net, and this is as good as any. He starts with an oil. I've never done that, and I don't think it's necessary for what you are trying to do.

http://ebenistecreateur.fr/file/livres/ ... 20(anglais)/finition/Padding%20on%20Shellac.pdf


If all that seems cumbersome, you can try spraying it - I have done that when trying to build surface quickly on an old piano, but that requires a different approach and is not nearly as much hands-on fun.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 5:19 pm 
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I cannot open that link , Gregory.
Thanks for all your advice.
Another thing, the original 4 shells have developed an Amber color to them that I cannot seem to get the 10 + 13 to do.
The original 4 polished up so well they appear to almost have a 'film' on them, yet no film/oil was intentionally applied.
I was quite sure I used clean cloth to polish, but now I'm beginning to doubt myself.

Gregory, have you ever experienced Ebony darkening from rubbing/buffing alone? The 10 + 13 have darkened a little, but nothing like the others.. Do I just have to keep going and polish more?

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2014 6:55 pm 
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Link is breaking for some reason. :evil:

Try This

I have never seen a shift in color that you are describing. Of course, if you really polish wood it will begin to seem to have a some sort of a finish, particularly ebony since it has so much oil. I assume when you Aussies say "polish" you mean "sanding"?

I'm not tracking the details of your progress, so I'm not certain I know what you mean. Did you do the first 4 and then the 10 and 13?

What's important is that they look the same when you apply a finish. I'm sure you know you can check that with alcohol (if you have not put anything on there that alcohol will lift).

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 10:52 pm 
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Gregory wrote:
Link is breaking for some reason. :evil:

Try This

I have never seen a shift in color that you are describing. Of course, if you really polish wood it will begin to seem to have a some sort of a finish, particularly ebony since it has so much oil. I assume when you Aussies say "polish" you mean "sanding"?

I'm not tracking the details of your progress, so I'm not certain I know what you mean. Did you do the first 4 and then the 10 and 13?

What's important is that they look the same when you apply a finish. I'm sure you know you can check that with alcohol (if you have not put anything on there that alcohol will lift).


I actually polished the veneers with a microfibre cloth until they looked like glass at a certain angle.
I initially only had the 12,16,24 + snr to work with, got them to finishing stage, then when I received the 10 + 13 I followed the same procedure.
I still wasn't 100% happy prior to finishing, and I can still see a difference however minute it is. But they are very close, and are obviously from the same tree, at least the kit will look that way when set up.
Not enough veneer left to do anything deeper than 6in, I really hope that I never have the need for an 8in tom, I could always use Alpi :shock: .

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 31, 2014 11:56 pm 
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You can always go back and scuff 'em up with sandpaper!

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 12:43 am 
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Gregory wrote:
You can always go back and scuff 'em up with sandpaper!

:lol:

I have followed the directions of this specific product, and have now applied 3x coats to the shells.
They look incredible, very very very happy. Thanks again for the advice, Gregory :D :D . The color is so rich.
I have a few spots that have run a little. The directions say I should wait 24hrs, give them a light rub back with fine paper or 000 wool, and apply another coat or 2.
Do you think this is a good idea? They are quite glossy already, but I'm not afraid of a little gloss. :| The more I look at them the more I think gloss will look better, in my opinion, of course. :roll:

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:18 am 
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I'm very pleased to hear that, Jeff! Isn't it just the greatest stuff?

My favorite way to finish shellac is pretty much what you said: sand it lightly, pad on a couple more coats, let that dry. Then knock the gloss back with 0000 wool (always in straight lines, of course), then apply furniture wax and rub out. I like brown wax, because it dries dark rather than white, in cracks or grain.

Knocking back the gloss makes the finish a little less garish, hides imperfections, and removes any nibs in the finish. Wax then raises the gloss slightly, and also provides a first line of defense against damage. The drums should glow!

I'm excited for you. Can't wait to see some photos.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 3:38 am 
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Not the best pic, you can't see how awesome they look, but
Image

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 11:46 am 
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Holy moly!

How did you turn them?

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 01, 2015 6:17 pm 
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Gregory wrote:
Holy moly!

How did you turn them?


Quite easily. Shellac mouse in left hand (I'm a lefty), right hand placed inside shell, then roll the shell with the palm of your hand. This was much more difficult with the weight of the Floor Tom and Kick, also the kick is only just over an inch from the floor, so it needed to be handled with a little TLC as the poles had some flex.

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