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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 12:25 pm 
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Location: Skopje, Republic Of Macedonia
Yup - they're here... :D

I'm VERY happy that they arrived, thanx to Tim, Brian and Cliff... :)

I opened the box, put the top diecast hoop on and the sound changed immediately... I thought "Oh my God, I can't wait to hear the snare with the bottom hoop as well"...

So, I started taking out the lugs, and then I noticed that those "ears" that protect the snare bed were not in line. Tried to straighten the one that was inside (by hand), but with no luck...
I said "ok, I can live with that".
Image
Image

And then I started tuning... Just when I got to the left snare bed - while tightening I heard a "crack"... :( :shock: :? :o :oops: :cry:

Result:
Image

Image



Faith 1 - Goki 0 :cry: :oops: :cry:
It was meant to be I guess...
I naturally tried to use super glue (hence the marks on the pictures), but with no luck - it just keeps splitting because of the tension on the shell...


Damn... :cry: She really is a beauty... I didn't know diecast hoops are fragile...
Too bad this happened to my Christmas present to me...

Image

Tim, Brian and Cliff - I THANK YOU ONCE AGAIN for helping me out with this (almost great) transaction. You're ALL great friends, and wonderful people!!!
It's a good thing I didn't sell the regular hoops (that was the plan, in order to cover up the expenses)... :lol: :evil: :(

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 1:30 pm 
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Is there ANY way of mending this?!?

Welding / whatever?!?


If not - You know where to find a top hoop in very good shape... :)

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:06 pm 
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Shit Goki that's such bad news! Hope you can possibly get it sorted. Bummer! :(

Gorgeous drum by the way!

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 2:27 pm 
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Location: Wisconsin, USA
Three things come to mind:

a) The main differences in feel and sound will come from the top hoop, not the bottom.
b) The drum might even feel better with the standard hoop on the bottom instead of the cast, so try that combination.
c) The big gate is not really needed for that throwoff. It is difficult to imagine that, compared to the top mass of hoop, that those little gates are doing much to affect the accoustics, and structurally they seem insignificant. Functionally, the gates are protecting the snares, but you are careful with your equipment, aren't you?
d) If it is irreparable and if you like the sound and feel of the cast lower hoop better than the flanged one, use it the way it is, making sure it does not buzz.

:oops: I guess that was four. :)

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 4:10 pm 
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I agree with all of this. My SClassix sounded great with a diecast on top only. When I changed the reso side too, it didn't make a lot of difference, and I even had the feeling that it sounded a bit "dead", so I removed it and played it for a long time with only topside.
I know a lot of drummers who removed the protective "ears" with a saw because it gave troubles with some snarestands. My 505, which has diecast hoops, has no ears too and I don't mind. Just be carefull, just like Greg said.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 7:32 pm 
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I was going to suggest the top only as well, sorry to hear it Goki, but you may have stumbled on a great hoop combination.
Any change the box was banged up, may be the shipper banged em up?"


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:13 pm 
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Hey Goki,

Happy to help; sorry to see what happened.

Maybe a welder can put a quick tack on the inside of the gate loop, just to keep it in place, but I suspect that if you try to close the crack, you will end up with some blued/burnt chrome visible on the outside.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 10, 2011 8:34 pm 
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Goki wrote:
It was meant to be I guess...

Too bad this happened to my Christmas present to me...
l: :(


tim wrote:
..., but you may have stumbled on a great hoop combination.
"


Maybe it was meant to be. :)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 3:10 am 
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cliff wrote:
Hey Goki,

Happy to help; sorry to see what happened.

Maybe a welder can put a quick tack on the inside of the gate loop, just to keep it in place, but I suspect that if you try to close the crack, you will end up with some blued/burnt chrome visible on the outside.



Cliff - when the hoop is off the snare (no tension), there's just a line visible. When I tension it, the crack opens... So, will welding help to keep this in place, or will it just break bellow/above the welding spot?!?

Tim - Brian did the BEST JOB with packing the hoops. The box sure went through rough times, but it's also opened here. My guess, the customs guy dropped the hoop on the side (they OPEN every box), which developed a line that later, with my attempt to make things right, and tension, transformed into a crack... Bottom line, I can't complain to the post office or customs. I can complain only to myself... :(

I too noticed that using just the top diecast hoop is enough... :)
It sounds right, but the look doesn't seem right... :( It's just me I know, but...


I'll see what I can do guys...


Thanks for all the help... :D
THIS place is always ready to help and support...

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Goki - short from Goran :)

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:08 am 
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Will a JB-Weld work?!?
http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php

Is there an European substitute for this one?!?

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