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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 12:28 am 
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Hello All,
This is a project I have been working on, still not totally done. Still in need of finish and air vents. But needed to post. The shells are from http://www.customdrums.de/component/option,com_virtuemart/page,shop.browse/category_id,21/Itemid,31/, The snare parts are Pearls FFS the brain child of the project. I had to cut the 5x14 snare down to 4 to mount proper into the FFS frame. The rest of the hardware is made up of a companies project made by http://http://8020.net/, I cut and tap them to take the the 12-24 tension rod. The Bass drum rim is a Tama Accu-Tune rim to help keep the hardware in place for now. So the big idea with all this is that the drum shells are completely floating in between the heads and hoops/rims. their is not a single hole or mount in the shell and all the drums are mounted to ISO mounts. In the end I have planned to stain the kit a shade of white hopefully lite enough to let the wood grain show. I am still curious to how important the breather holes are since those will be the only holes to be made. This is my first project kit, Wayne

Sizes: 18x24, 5x14, 9x13, 10x14, 18x16, & 19x18

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 5:17 am 
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Location: Skopje, Republic Of Macedonia
These are ALREADY looking GREAT!!!

And a shade of white - brilliant idea!!!

Congratulations Wayne... :)

I think You'll need the vent holes - and also You should (maybe) consider chromed tubes instead of aluminum (that the lugs go into)? Or a black metal piece that will hold the "female end" for the lug?!? They'll match the bass drum hoop that way...

Although - as a whole - the kit is STUNNING!!!

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 2:30 pm 
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Great looking.

I think you'll need some kind of vent. When you hit a head, the air inside compresses until the head at the other end can react. The entire drum needs to breath so that the heads can move freely. That's my theory.

How is a floating-shell drum tuned? Can the two heads be tuned independently? I would assume that tightening one head would affect the other, and that the tuning would have to be of equal tension, top to bottom.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 30, 2011 11:57 pm 
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Looks good Wayne.

How close are the shells to the old Phonic shells?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 9:22 pm 
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Evening Guys,
Thanks for the comments, I was thinking that the aluminum could be plated or chromed. The black Bass hoop is kind of a snag in the design for now, but still working it on it. So tuning wise the resonant head rods are fully threaded into the lug allowing the batter head to control both heads and tuning them simultaneously. Another reason I had bought the Drum Dial to see how well the theory works. I will have to see how well the bottom head can be de-tuned. It will be a round robin since the other head will be effect.

The next plan hardware wise is to drill and mount the ISO hoops to the lugs to help alignment of the lugs and allow for easier head changes and independently tunings. I have played them a few times now and think venting for sure, the toms have some bounce to them, Looking at the originally Pearl snare shell theirs not vent. I think once I pop a mic vent in the BD head that will help


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 31, 2011 11:06 pm 
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Anodizing works well on aluminum and makes a fairly strong coating, available in many colors including silver. Chrome is a bit tricky on AL, and Sonor's efforts in that direction prove the point; a fair amount of unexplained bubbling. I suspect, but do not know, that chromed aluminum left in a temperature stable environment may fair well, but changes in temperature may tend to pop the bond.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:36 am 
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Yup - aluminum and chrome tend to make trouble...
Coating would be the easy way...


Gorgeous set - nevertheless... Congratulations...

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 12:50 pm 
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trussmonkey wrote:
...So tuning wise the resonant head rods are fully threaded into the lug allowing the batter head to control both heads and tuning them simultaneously. Another reason I had bought the Drum Dial to see how well the theory works...

Be aware that since the drum dail is a durometer (measures the resistance required to deflect the head) that evenly tensioned heads of different thickness wil record different readings.

The test will only be true if the same thickness head is used on both sides.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 3:14 pm 
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Gregory wrote:
Anodizing works well on aluminum and makes a fairly strong coating, available in many colors including silver. Chrome is a bit tricky on AL, and Sonor's efforts in that direction prove the point; a fair amount of unexplained bubbling. I suspect, but do not know, that chromed aluminum left in a temperature stable environment may fair well, but changes in temperature may tend to pop the bond.


The Ludwig Supraphonic is another example of an aluminum shell and chrome plating....


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 01, 2011 4:34 pm 
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latzanimal wrote:

The Ludwig Supraphonic is another example of an aluminum shell and chrome plating....


True enough. The Germans, if anyone, can usually get the chemistry right. Sonor backed away from the combo with the second generation Designer stands, although it still exists on the track-and-pole rack tom mounts, with mixed results.

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