On drums...

Indeed. Modern finishes are too clear and have no tonal character. Whenever I work in Scandinavian birch, I always use nitric acid and then heat (using a heat gun) to give it that lovely amber tone to look like it has been around for a century or so. I also use amber shellac flakes to get the tone I want, but it is best to darken the wood first, so that the color does not depend on the thickness of the finish, which is very difficult to control, particularly when making a repair.

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Gregory

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Cliff

River City Trio

What if we did all have the same opinions?

Great job Rob!!

They look much better..

So if you had bought SQ in Scandi to start with, would your investment be as high as it is currently, figuring your time and materials? I notice you bought the Designer/SQ bass drum rods, and that couldn't have been cheap.

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Gregory

I didn't spend much money. The veneer was only 40 USD to fix the complete kit, the kit I bought second hand for about 1750 USD, the glue and waxoil I got for free. And time? well it was my spare time and I loved to do it. The BD tensionrods were not that expensive, I think I ordered SQ2 ones (the designer ones won't fit, they have another thread) at ST-drums long time ago for about 5 € a piece. They fit in the SClassix claws. I allready owned a SClassix in Rosewood a few years ago and hated the original BD tensionscrews because you have to tune or adjust with a drumkey. You can't "feel" it with a key. That kit I traded with "some" extra money for the Steve Smith kit I also have. I kept the SQ2 rods.
So I think I have a SQ2 now for half the price (?).
The only investment I should do to complete the job is to get the big rubbers on the lugs (35 cents a piece, I would need 72), that would be only optical because I don't think the rubbers will make a difference in sound and the SQ2 TAR. The TAR I am not sure about. I don't hear any difference in sound with my "real" SQ2 and I do like the looks of the simpler SClassix/Delite/SteveSmithkit TAR. The TAR would cost me about 60 USD a piece and I need 2.

To show that the veneer is really cheap, here another example from eBay.de, only 15 euros (about 20USD), http://www.ebay.nl/itm/Furnier-Birke-Ma ... 388&_uhb=1

For the fun I am going to start the SQ2 configurator en make my kit.
I'll be back with the result.

The result on the SQ2 configurator for exactly the kit (Your unique print ID (UPID):137950840610-1 , I converted the total amount to dollars for your convenience) 5594 USD
My costs, also in USD:
the kit 1750
veneer 40
logos 90
bd rods 100
(rubbers 33 , haven't decided yet)
Gives a total of 1980 USD, so I got a cheap SQ2 don't you think?? and a unique one....

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SQ2Tigerwood, Steve Smith kit, SClassix scandi,Teardrop rosewood, Swinger blue ripple,snares: D505, D554, Steve Smith snares, SQ2 13x6.5 scandi, Benny Greb signature, Artist cottonwood, Lite

Very very nice.
I know how you are feeling. It was very rewarding to veneer a drum some time back. I can't explain it but it is fun to do and every step is taking with extreme caution. But when you are done you really feel like you created something special.

As a side note, I am about to veneer a kit and wanted to try veneer with a backing this time as it just seems easier.
When I asked a veneer company about adhesive they told me the "iron on" stuff would not work on curved pieces.


Another side note, I really wanted to do Ebony. That desire left me as soon as I saw the prices. It is 5 times the cost of any other veneer, including Bubinga.

How much do you need?

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Gregory

Right on, exactly what I felt (and still do)

About ironing the round curves: that's bull... It's the only way to do it! Perhaps not using the paperbacked veneer, but with honest wood it will work.
You also have to keep in mind with the ebony Sonor uses that it's not the real stuff. Ebony by ALPI is much cheaper.
The real stuff, 1 meter by 10 cm is only 4 euros... http://www.ebay.de/itm/Furnier-20-Holza ... 588fc3e9b6


or this, not too expensiv too: http://www.ebay.de/itm/16-Blatter-Furni ... 232fe0a82e
translation from German: Blatter are leafes, lang = long, breit = wide, dick( ) = thickness

and there is more if you search. I can buy and ship it for you.

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SQ2Tigerwood, Steve Smith kit, SClassix scandi,Teardrop rosewood, Swinger blue ripple,snares: D505, D554, Steve Smith snares, SQ2 13x6.5 scandi, Benny Greb signature, Artist cottonwood, Lite

It is the adhesive backed (which is paper backed) veneer Kel was talking about, not whether on uses an iron to activate the glue.

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Gregory

I think you are right, the glue on the adhesive paper might not be a thermoplast.

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SQ2Tigerwood, Steve Smith kit, SClassix scandi,Teardrop rosewood, Swinger blue ripple,snares: D505, D554, Steve Smith snares, SQ2 13x6.5 scandi, Benny Greb signature, Artist cottonwood, Lite