On drums...

PS/ I taped areas prior to gluing, and I taped pieces of veneer together prior to gluing.
Once the glue went off I found it much easier to separate the joined veneers and place each piece on individually.
As they don't stick until they are hit with the iron, you can place them exactly were you want, its quite easy really.
The snare alone took about as long (exaggerated) as the 12,16,24, the first is always the hardest.

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Jeff
Gots ta luv da Beech
Australia

I'm trying to understand why the joints opened, and I assume it is because the veneer expanded when the water-based glue was applied, and shrank when it dried. If you used something like Tite-bond, it does not have sufficient rigidity to hold the joint as glued.

From what I understand, PVA glues creep unless you use clamping pressure on the joints for hours after the glue is set, to hold them in position. Hide glue joints apparently do not require pressure. So a PVA might be good for veneering a single sheet on a surface that is smaller than the sheet of veneer, but not so good for book-matching flitches around a drum.

Hide glue is water-based, but the chemistry of hide glue is fairly remarkable. Daimler-Benz was using it, with veneering hammers (like an iron), to veneer all the remarkably complex shapes and compound curves of their interior woodwork, at least into the 1970s. May still be, for all I know. To give you some idea of a hide glue joint's stability, the temperature of wood under a windshield in summer sun will be well over 220ºF, and in winter it gets as cold as it does outside. In Wisconsin that can be as low as -125ºF, and it gets much colder in other places.

What does attack a hide glue joint is the combination of heat and water.

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Gregory

The veneer did curl, with the glued side on the outside (longest circumference) of the sheet.
But this is my first attempt at such a project, and I think it was more my procedures that improved as I went on.

I believe the iron on method doesn't seem to require the usual clamping. I've never used PVA in this way, and I never had so much mess free ease with it. And it appears to be very well bonded, as one.

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Jeff
Gots ta luv da Beech
Australia

Creeping is part of the benefit of a PVA glue. Emphasis mine:



Urea resin glue would not have done shrunk back, but urea resin cannot be hammered. Hide glue is the only glue I know of that can be hammered without creating problems later.

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Gregory

Rob from Holland (HiHat) used this method on his SClassix kit with some Skandi Birch. He got the idea from his Carpenter/Joiner Brother-in-law.
He says a year later it is still sitting perfectly.
As iIlive in Melbourne Australia, we had a day last week that was 34 degrees C and then 12 degrees C the next.
They say in Melbourne if you don't like the weather, wait 5 minutes.
I think my shells have experienced 4 seasons in one day.

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Jeff
Gots ta luv da Beech
Australia

Just so we're clear, I'm talking about hot hide glue mixed from flakes, not the premix cold stuff.

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Gregory

Any other options for finishing? I was thinking an oil finish maybe, Tung Oil or Danish Oil.
Is there any chance of an oil de-laminating the veneer? The glue is water based.
I might have to use a lacquer.

PS/ I just veneered the final 2x toms, now for the sanding and polishing and polishing and polishing and.......polishing.

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Jeff
Gots ta luv da Beech
Australia

I have found this stuff on special locally. $10 a litre instead of $60 odd.
What do you guys think?
http://cabots.com.au/product-detail/144 ... niture-oil

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Jeff
Gots ta luv da Beech
Australia

I don't know Cabot's. I have used Cabot products, but that is a different company.

As soon as oil finishes are discussed, I get confused. And this is why:

http://www.woodcentral.com/russ/finish6.shtml

I have had measured success with genuine tung oil, because I don't have the patience required. The modified oil finishes are easier to use, but as the article states, you lose the properties of tung oil. I have an original Nakashima bench that I fuss with tung oil periodically in order to keep its original finish, the value being enormously eroded by finishing in anything else. On the other hand, I have a table I made on which I used a modified oil finish so that I don't have to worry about all that. A couple of coats and it's done. The finish is less attractive, but so be it.

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Gregory

Which product did you use? Any specific Oil. Danish Oil, Lemon Oil?

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Jeff
Gots ta luv da Beech
Australia