On drums...

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 26, 2012 6:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 09, 2010 3:42 am
Posts: 282
Gregory wrote:
..... because in the end, I just want them to sound like drums, and look good, and be something I can warm up to.


And I really think that's what most drummers are after. Like political elections, they don't care enough to take the time to really dig into what is behind or the cause of things/candidates. Therefor they end up believing whatever hype/BS is put out by the companies bidding for their $$$.

|Not that there is anything wrong with just wanting a set of drums, it's the respouting of company hype that drives me nuts... but again, I may be an arrogant ass...


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 2:20 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 15, 2010 4:12 am
Posts: 96
Location: Denver Colorado
I don't buy into sound isolation rubber. My lacquered set has gaskets under the hardware probably just to keep the tension rod splay even when compared to a kit that uses the same shells and hardware with a wrap. I'm sure many would say it's to isolate the metal or protect the finish...

As far as the discussion of wood and tone. I don't hear much with this. Seems that heads, tuning, shell thickness and depth, bearing edges, interior finishing and hoops have more influence on the sound vs the material used to make the shell. I have drums made of Maple, birch, poplar and luan. The toms sound all reasonably close as I tend to head and tune them all the same (coated G2 or clear Pins over clear Ambassadors), the kicks and snares are a little different, but mostly based on head choice.

As long as they tune easily, are not too heavy, sound & look good, spare parts are available and the price doesn't break the bank... I'm happy.

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Chris


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 28, 2012 8:29 pm 
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Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:48 am
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Location: lordandkelly@comcast.net
Quote:
As long as they tune easily, are not too heavy, sound & look good, spare parts are available and the price doesn't break the bank... I'm happy.


That about sums it up.


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